NEWBURYPORT -- For a snapshot of the changing commercial landscape in this coastal city, look no farther than 88 State St.

The Rymsha family's legendary breakfast joint, Taffy's, closed in September after 54 years at that address. Soon the renovated shop will reopen under new management as a contemporary bistro called Theory. No surprise that has caused a bit of talk.

''For the most part I will say it's been positive reaction, but without a doubt there have been a lot of naysayers," said Rob Minichiello, 32, the new owner. ''A little bit of negativity and resentment toward what I'm doing, by the looks on their faces, and sometimes as they approach, the word is, 'How ya gonna put a bistro in here?' "

The restaurant's name was initially intended to refer to culinary theory, but it really stuck when he heard speculation that Taffy's was being replaced by ''a sub shop, a Chinese takeout, a flower shop that serves sandwiches."

''I said, geez, everyone has a theory," Minichiello said.

On July 6, the chef was at the Newburyport Public Library next door, looking up online restaurant-for-sale listings, when he came out and saw the small ''For Sale" sign in the window of Taffy's.

''Once I saw that sign and took maybe a step back off the sidewalk and looked up and down State Street, I thought, if there's a chance to be in this beautiful city, I have to act now," said Minichiello, who plans to open in December.

But he doesn't want Newburyport to misunderstand bistro food: ''Classic bistro is defined as a neighborhood restaurant that's for the locals."

''I want to have fun here. It's not going to be a stuffy restaurant with white linen tablecloths," Minichiello said.

He is also looking for ways to honor the memory of Taffy's, perhaps by hanging a collage of the historic photos he saved during the renovation or having a monthly Taffy's night.

Minichiello is just one of several new owners on the downtown restaurant scene who are trying to find their place between Newburyport's past and its upscale present.

Aaron and Liz Lichtenberg, both 28, a former brew-pub manager and a third-grade teacher, recently took over the underperforming Me & Ollie's location in Newburyport.

The large storefront under the landmark red and green neon Fowle's sign at 17 State St. is split in half. One side belongs to Fowle's newsstand, which opened at another location in 1865 and moved to the present spot in 1903, according to the Historical Society of Old Newbury. The other side, where Me & Ollie's was located, has been a restaurant and gathering place since the 1920s. In partnership with Roger Elkus, a family friend who runs the Me & Ollie's cafes in Portsmouth, N.H., the Lichtenbergs reopened the place, once again called Fowle's, in May.

''We wanted to do this space justice," Aaron said.

In a fairly short time, they won a steady clientele with their breakfast burritos and blueberry pancakes, drawing customers disenfranchised by the closure of Taffy's and two other popular breakfast spots this summer. They also serve lunch.

''A lot of people were very happy to see it back to Fowle's," Aaron said.

''And everyone wants to tell you," said Liz. ''It means so much to people."

''It's either 'I remember when I was a kid . . .' or 'I remember bringing my kids in,' " said Aaron.

''Sometimes at nights when the lights are all off . . . you realize what we've got going on here. Something special, I don't know. Just seeing all the faces, every single day," said Liz.

Just around the corner, in a former seashell shop at 21 Middle St., Bil and Meg Silliker are mounting a challenge to the local coffee culture. On Oct. 8 they opened a stylish tearoom called Licorice & Sloe Co.

One night almost three years ago, Bil was shopping for tea at a website that offered franchise opportunities. He and Meg submitted an application.

''We never heard back from them, but we became passionate over the following six weeks," said Bil, 40. The couple read books, attended tea seminars and expos. Most important, they knew what they wanted to provide the people of Newburyport.

''We want them to take time for tea. Nobody does that," said Meg, 43. ''That's my little thing. Not go-go-go coffee. Take time for tea. We want them to linger."

The decor at Licorice & Sloe manages to be both sleek and comfortable, with tables in front, cushy chairs in the back, and wireless Internet service. A chalkboard lists several dozen teas and tea drinks, from Yunnan Black Gold to Cream Caramel. Every pot comes with an electronic timer, so it steeps just long enough.

''I think Newburyport is very metropolitan," said Meg. ''I just think it's a really cool town. . . . People are open to different things. And since tea isn't mainstream -- yet -- people are very open to that in this town."